I am a newbie to superkarting, I have an Arrow AX9 Rotax. I was just wondering if anyone could recommend to me what would be the best type of axle I should use?
Mr Pitt: Most people seem to run 50mm axle medium hardness, but I think it really depends on the chassis. Scott on here will be able to help you (SAFE Evolutions).
Thanks for that IWT, asked a few fellow karters and they all concurred with you So I bought maxxi HG3 and a 40mm/3mm/medium axle and a new rear disc while I was there
Can IWT or someone in the know also give advice on general setup for a sprint kart chassis used in superkarts 125 Rotax. I noticed that 250s run the front and rear tyres in line as opposed to sprint that is much wider in the rear. So, would it be any good to run the rear much narrower or the fronts wider, or maybe a bit of both to get it more in line? Saying that I also noticed that the Hyperacer run there fronts very narrow, no hubs at all, straight on the bearing with maybe a 5mm spacer. To a newbie, it doest make sense. ???
Also in sprintkarting we run minimum caster on tracks that are flowing. The general advice that I get from the superkarters is to run minimum caster, 0 camber, 0 toe. My question is that in superkarting there is so little steering input to get thru a corner, that it would make more sense to run maximum caster to get the inside rear to lift. It doesnt make sense. Any thoughts on it?
The general advice is also to run the rear fairley soft, and I am told that its mainley to help with the bumps, but would this not just murder the turn in and ruin lap times?
Please dont respond by saying go to the track and find out whats works for you. Please share your experience with us newbies. any setup help would be appreciated.
Thank you for your reply Lee and for lesson #1 in superkarts IWT. It sounds to me that lesson one should be, " forget everything you learned the hard way in sprintkarts the past 5 years and start with a blank memory"
This information does help a lot and is appreciated.
IWT, we run a Arrow X1 Cik in Junior form. At the moment with sprint kart bodywork, but I am planning to build a nosecone.
When you say front track as narrow as possible, does this mean straight on the spindle, no spacers, no hubs?
Also, with the hard 'ish rear axle, would you then run the sidepods tight, rear bar tight and front bar loose?
Is weight distribition front/rear critical? My guess is that more weight in the front will be better to help with turn in/front grip, but then everything in lesson #1 points to a minimum steering setup. Now I am confusing myself again. I'm ready for lesson #2.
This leads me to another point. Would the setup change if you put on a superkart nosecone? I imagine a fibreglass nosecone would have a little bit of downforce and a lot of weight in front of the front axle that will give the chassis a different balance. Apart from looking sexy, is there any benefit (speed/laptimes) at all from using a nosecone?
[quote author=Gary Slabbert link=topic=1472.msg14106#msg14106 date=1320625809] Apart from looking sexy, is there any benefit (speed/laptimes) at all from using a nosecone? [/quote]
Keeps the wind off the driver and if it rains it keeps their feet reasonably dry.
One big disadvantage. If you get the height off the ground at the front wrong it alters the whole front end geometry and makes the kart a nightmare to drive.
To The Ex Cook. "One big disadvantage. If you get the height off the ground at the front wrong it alters the whole front end geometry and makes the kart a nightmare to drive."
Can you please elaborate on this a bit more. I am trying to find out a smuch as I can before building a nosecone. Does this mean that the bottom should be as close to the ground as legally possible (25mm) or are you referring to the angle (downforce created)
Also, is it beneficial to have a nosecone that is designed for minimum drag (purely to go faster in a straight line), or should it be designed to create a bit (maybe a lot) of downforce for cornering. This is specifically for 125Rotax.
Through the air the NGB nose should be neutral. No downforce, no lift. The front end on the NGB karts are very sensitive to downward pressure and lift is obviously detrimental to grip.
Comments10
Re: Axle Options
size? thickness? stiffness?......which do you have to start with?
[/quote]
Sorry Chop Chop but that statement is almost too good to pass up ;) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Re: Axle Options
Mr Pitt: Most people seem to run 50mm axle medium hardness, but I think it really depends on the chassis. Scott on here will be able to help you (SAFE Evolutions).
Re: Axle Options
Not sure if its really critical like sprint karts.
Cheers
Re: Axle Options
you
So I bought maxxi HG3 and a 40mm/3mm/medium axle
and a new rear disc while I was there
Cheers
Re: Axle Options
Also in sprintkarting we run minimum caster on tracks that are flowing. The general advice that I get from the superkarters is to run minimum caster, 0 camber, 0 toe. My question is that in superkarting there is so little steering input to get thru a corner, that it would make more sense to run maximum caster to get the inside rear to lift. It doesnt make sense. Any thoughts on it?
The general advice is also to run the rear fairley soft, and I am told that its mainley to help with the bumps, but would this not just murder the turn in and ruin lap times?
Please dont respond by saying go to the track and find out whats works for you. Please share your experience with us newbies. any setup help would be appreciated.
Re: Axle Options
I run my B-max as square as I can get it with a soft axle, 2mm positve camber. Caster depends on the track.
Lee
Re: Axle Options
" forget everything you learned the hard way in sprintkarts the past 5 years and start with a blank memory"
This information does help a lot and is appreciated.
IWT, we run a Arrow X1 Cik in Junior form. At the moment with sprint kart bodywork, but I am planning to build a nosecone.
When you say front track as narrow as possible, does this mean straight on the spindle, no spacers, no hubs?
Also, with the hard 'ish rear axle, would you then run the sidepods tight, rear bar tight and front bar loose?
Is weight distribition front/rear critical? My guess is that more weight in the front will be better to help with turn in/front grip, but then everything in lesson #1 points to a minimum steering setup. Now I am confusing myself again. I'm ready for lesson #2.
This leads me to another point. Would the setup change if you put on a superkart nosecone? I imagine a fibreglass nosecone would have a little bit of downforce and a lot of weight in front of the front axle that will give the chassis a different balance. Apart from looking sexy, is there any benefit (speed/laptimes) at all from using a nosecone?
Re: Axle Options
Apart from looking sexy, is there any benefit (speed/laptimes) at all from using a nosecone?
[/quote]
Keeps the wind off the driver and if it rains it keeps their feet reasonably dry.
One big disadvantage. If you get the height off the ground at the front wrong it alters the whole front end geometry and makes the kart a nightmare to drive.
Re: Axle Options
Can you please elaborate on this a bit more. I am trying to find out a smuch as I can before building a nosecone.
Does this mean that the bottom should be as close to the ground as legally possible (25mm) or are you referring to the angle (downforce created)
Also, is it beneficial to have a nosecone that is designed for minimum drag (purely to go faster in a straight line), or should it be designed to create a bit (maybe a lot) of downforce for cornering. This is specifically for 125Rotax.
Thanks, Gary Slabbert
Re: Axle Options